Buying and Selling a Buzz

Buying Guide

Brief of Development

The Buzz started at sail no. 401 in year 1994 with the Mk I version. A number of revisions were made and a Mk II version was launched with sail no. circa 450 in 1995/6. The differences between the Mk I and Mk II versions of the Buzz are:

• The kicker was fed back to port and starboard on Mk I, whereas on Mk II it is led straight down the middle of the boat and under the mainsheet cleat.

• The jib cleats were in board on blocks moulded into the deck on earlier version, until they were replaced with cleats mounted on brackets bolted to the sides of the boat.

• The mainsail had 3 battens with an extra batten added to Mk II.

• A buoyancy hatch was added from about 800/850onwards. This hatch can be retro fitted to Mk Is.

• The space frame has had an additional stainless rod fitted since its introduction (as a guide Buzz 530 never had one originally but Buzz 722 did) . These can easily be retro fitted to Mk Is and are eadily available for a modest cost (typically £10 to £15). (The strut stops the frame from lifting under load so therefore a rope strop with purchases can be used as a cheaper alternative)

• The Boom and Kicker attachment
  - All booms now have webbing strops on as standard for kicker and mainsheet.
  - Old style booms – check the mainsheet fittings as the shackles could have worn the boom away and increase the chance of breakages.
  - Check wear on kicker strop and securing rivet – they do wear
  All MkI boats can be modified legally to MkII. This also applies to MkII being converted back to MkI format The hull colours, sail numbers and corresponding years are:

Items to check for when buying second hand buzzes.

The following is a list of key items to check for. Please use the Buzz Class Association Message Board for clarification and the most up to date information

1. Dagger boards are prone to leaking (they are hollow), however this problem can be can be sorted out. Also check for any disfigurement due to excessive temperatures when storing.
2. Please use the ISO buyers guide for help and pointers as the boats are very similar.
3. Ideally try and check that the boat is water tight – there has been some evidence of gunwale seams cracking and if the boat has T-boned another the pole hole surround can be easily split and is hard to see with pole in place
4. Check shroud plates – with high rig loads there has been some evidence of these wanting to ‘pull through’ the gunwale
5. Check that the spinnaker ratchet blocks work – they’re £35 each!
6. Check that the spinnaker is stitched on all seams – some were only glued and there is some evidence that seams have opened;
7. Check luff ends of main sail batten pockets – most are now riveted to prevent the battens wearing their way through to the luff rope;
8. Don’t worry too much about minor surface nicks and scratches – these can be easily repaired.

To download this buying guide click here

The best place to buy a buzz is through the message board classified section, you can get to there by clicking here

Selling Guide

The best place to sell a buzz is through the message board classified section, you can get to there by clicking here