Tuning Your Buzz

The following is a guide to tuning the rig of the Buzz adapted from Richard Parslow's account in Buzz Words. As the Buzz is a one design with a simple layout there are not as many adjustments to play with as some classes, this means that boat setup is simplified.

Below is a guide to calibrating your boat.

Mast Rake - The mast rake is measured from the top of the deck at the base of the rudder stock to the masthead. The shrouds, which are the principle control, are adjusted by moving the pin down the shroud plate (increasing hole no.).

Rig Tension - With the jib up, swatcher and jib sheets free, position one is obtained with the purchase system as tensioned as possible. Electrical tape up both sides of the mast should be marked every 40mm using the top of the hook as a reference. The final position is obtained when the halyard begins to sag.

Mast Bend - The swatcher is applied until the mast is straight to the spreaders. Look up the mast track to ensure the mast is not inverted. Mark either the side of the gate, with a line across the face of the mast, or the control line as position zero. The control line should then be marked every 25 mm.

Kicker - This control is usually left uncalibrated. Leech telltales indicate the twist of the sail.

Cunningham - It is also not neccessary to calibrate this control.The luff of the sail indicates required downhaul tension.

Outhaul - Calibration is not needed, but a knot set in the control line such that the foot of the sail is not 'baggy' more than 150mm from the boom aids downwind setting.

Jib Sheeting - Mark the sheet between the block and the cleat platform so that it is clearly seen. A calibration strip set on the boat will then aid sheeting on either tack.

Daggerboard - Number from the top down every 40 mm.

Below is the setting for various wind strengths, this will mostly apply to sostads

ed - There is mixed opinion in the fleet with regards to easing or increasing rig tension as the wind increases, I personally like to keep high rig tension at all times to support the mast better as the wind increases.

VERY LIGHT AIRS (0-5 knots, F 0-1)
Shrouds	Position 1 (Least rake)
Jib Halyard	Position 1 (Tensioned)
Swatcher	Off (Allows most mast bend)
Cunningham	Tight enough to remove creases
Kicker	Eased off, tight only when mainsheet off
Jib Sheet	Eased off to allow sail to twist
Daggerboard	Position 0 (Down)

LIGHT AIRS (5-10 knots, F 2-3)
Shrouds	Position 1 (Least rake)
Jib Halyard	Position 1 (Tensioned)
Swatcher	Position 0 (No bend)
Cunningham	Fully eased
Kicker	Tight when main is centred
Jib Sheet	Tighten to allow leach to match mainsail
Daggerboard	Position 0 (Down)

LIGHT TO MEDIUM AIRS (10-15 knots, F 4)
Shrouds	Position 1 (Least rake)
Jib Halyard	Position 1-2 (Ease a little). 2 as wind increases
Swatcher	Position 0 (No bend). As wind increases the swatcher should be eased to allow the mainsail to flatten.
Cunningham	Enough to remove creases. Use the cunningham to depower quickly by increasing tension, decrease immediatly after.
Kicker	Increase to maintain leach tension, do not overtighten however
Jib Sheet	Tighten
Daggerboard	Position 1

MEDIUM WINDS (15-20 knots, F 5)
Shrouds	Position 1-2 (Increase rake if light crew)
Jib Halyard	Position 3
Swatcher	Position >1 (Ease)
Cunningham	Tension to flatten top of the sail
Kicker	Increase tension
Jib Sheet	Ease when overpowered to match slot
Daggerboard	Position 2-3 (Prevent boat tripping)

FRESH WINDS (20-25 knots, F 6)
Shrouds	Position 2+
Jib Halyard	Position 3-4
Swatcher	Position >2 (Ease more)
Cunningham	Haul on to 'blade out' top of the sail
Kicker	Tension, beware of too much, which disturbs handling
Jib Sheet	Ease to open slot
Daggerboard	Position 4-5 (Prevent boat tripping)
Outhaul	On hard

STRONG WINDS (25+ knots, F 6+)
Shrouds	Position >2
Jib Halyard	Off 6
Swatcher	Ease off
Cunningham	Hard as possible on
Kicker	Not too much Tension
Jib Sheet	Ease off
Daggerboard	Position 4-5 or 6